LaserSoft Imaging

When I prescan film strips, color-contrast-brightness appearance is automatically different for each selected frame.

For example:
when I select frame No.1 (boy, illustrated on first picture BOY.JPG), color settings are OK, but when I click on frame No.2 (field, illustrated on FIELD.JPG), color settings are automatically set differently and color of field is very poor.

I want to use color settings of frame No.1(boy) for frame No.2(field).
Or - the best solution - I want to scan my negative film "AS-IS", WITHOUT ANY AUTOMATIC CORRECTIONS, just using the correct profile in NegaFix for my film.
How to do it?

I use SilverFast Ai6 updated to version 6.2.1r5, scanner Epson Expression 1680 Pro, film Fuji Superia 200.
Thanks in advance.

there are two things that I can think of to try.

1. in the Options/Auto tab, turn off "Automatic when opening image".

this however only means that the Image-Automatic function will not be automatically triggered each time an image is opened. I suspect that this is not what you are referring to, so try:


2. in the Negafix window, click on the Expert button (the 'professor') to open the Expert settings. there *might* be an Auto checkbox there. turn it off. then make adjustments to the curves and ranges while viewing one or more of your images to get as authentic a colour rendering as possible. save the negafix profile with a name of your own choice.

this profile can then be used with your images, using the same curves and colour range for each and every frame. it should give you the consistent results you are hoping for.

ideally, (assuming that my explanation above is correct), a fussy user would customise/tweak the negafix profile for every strip of film they scan but that could be time consuming. it should be noted though that the negafix profile is the most important factor in getting 'good' scans from the film so tweaking the profiles can be worthwhile.

while writing this reply, I had to refer to my copy of HDR. in the Negafix Expert dialog, I couldn't find the Auto checkbox. the interface seems to have changed. can someone from LS explain what changed? are profiles not automatic by default anymore?

regards
Gregory

Dear Gregory,

the "Auto" checkbox is only there for a scanner that can supply raw data (more than 8bit).
In the HDR version that means that it's only there if you have opened a 16bit image.

Regards
Ralf

thank you for that explanation. HDR was previewing the default LS house-on-a-beach picture at the time.

was the rest of my message correct regarding the Negafix/Expert/Auto function?

Yes, the rest of your posting regarding the Negafix/Auto function was correct

thank you, Gregory.
Your advice helped me to get much better results.

But (in spite of your advice) to achieve proper results is demanding and it requires much more human intervation than I expected.

I have the following idea:
Every time I will take photos (for example in wild nature, in room etc.) I will also take a photo of "LaserSoft calibration table".

During scanning process, first of all I will scan corresponding negative of "LaserSoft calibration table", then I will save its profile in NegaFix and in the end I will use this profile for all negatives-snaps taken in the same light conditions.

In this manner I should give the optimal results.

Is my idea correct? What do you think of it?

I have often thought of taking a photo of a white piece of paper before taking photos, similar to what TV camera people do.

the problem with this is that you will lose any lighting colour effect because you assume that the white will always be white. in fact, it may be slightly orange at sunset, or green under a green light (we're not talking colour temperature here).

one solution might be to take a photo of the white paper using the camera's flash to produce a 'standard' white without any colour influences or colour temperature influences (assuming your flash is strong enough).

others here may have better ideas.


keep in mind though that if you create your negafix profiles, they can problem be used for most of your film (same brand, speed, etc) with minimal tweaking. in the long run, it might work out better and not require all that much time.

regards
Gregory