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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2001 7:07 pm
by darkb2002
Having just purchased SilverFasts HDR, as I use mainly a digital camera and on occasions a scanner, callibrating with IT8 on the scanner is excellent as you have a constant light source. With a digital camera it obviously is a bit hit and miss depending on the light source of the shot (including flash). Can anybody tell me the most accurate way to callibrate using a digital camera, or will it work if the scanner profile is used, as it is a raw image and you are really just callibrating from the hard drive, or not as the case may be.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Darkblue23 on 2001-08-28 20:46 ]</font>
PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2001 8:04 am
by LSI_Support
Hello Darkblue23,
the actual light conditions are unfortunately a major point with calibration of digital cameras. When conditions change your reference does not refer to the actual contition any longer. It is a bit like growing out of a suit you bought long ago.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2001 8:34 am
by ilyons
To issue of different light sources, etc is valid but unfortunately overplayed. Within reason a basic calibration profile can handle many situations.
Therefore, I would agree that there is considerible merit in LaserSoft including the facility to at least read the GretagMacbeth ColorChecker chart and thus allow a degree of basic calibration. Digital cameras with the ability to save the image data in the raw format are becoming more widespread and many users are now working with this data since it is more flexible than the conventional JPEG format.
My experience with the more expensive ColorChecker DC chart would indicate that the calibration facilities (i.e. those patches that must be read and those that can be ignored, e.g. glossy and grey bars) would need to be substantially more comprenshive than SilverFast curretly provides or would reasonably be expected to provide at reasonable cost (software with such facilities cost many hundreds of $$$$).
At present I use SilverFast HDR to process and carry out minor edits on my high-bit digicam files. My digital camera ICC profiles (created on 3rd party software) are selected in the in the scanner reflective/transparent popup window. For some images HDR is a god send since I can carry out "selective" colour edits (mainly hue and saturation) that simply cannot be undertaken in high-bit mode within Photoshop. It is even possible to add a small degree of USM to these images. My only source of disappointment with this workflow is the fact that the data exported from SilverFast HDR is 24bit colour and not 48bit colour.
Ian
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ilyons on 2001-08-30 09:39 ]</font>
PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2001 12:37 pm
by darkb2002
Thanks for your replies.I do agree that the pictures from my digtal camera with the scanners calibration are pretty good, but it is again the light factor, with most pictures coming out with very dark colour, and lots of problem with white.
What advice do SilverFast recommend for purchasers of the specifically targeted software with it8 calibration aimed directly to digital camera user(silverfast DC).To me this hit and miss is a bit deceptive if not mentioned.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Darkblue23 on 2001-08-30 13:57 ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Darkblue23 on 2001-08-30 14:10 ]</font>
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Darkblue23 on 2001-08-30 16:26 ]</font>
PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2001 5:31 am
by Joe Butts
Regarding calibrating the digital camera: You didn't mention which camera. I'm using a Canon D30 as well as a Foveon. I first photograph a sheet of photo inkjet paper stock (white base of photos being printed) with a gray card in the middle of it. I do a custom white balance based on the white. I then photograph the MacBeth ColorChecker (not the DC) under the conditions I will be working. I use these 2 files to set my Levels and Curves in Photoshop 6.0.1. I check the white/gray image for whiteness and a neutral gray. If it is, good. If not, you can make a quick Curves Adjustment Layer in PS, save that adjustment as a file. Next, using the ColorChecker, set your white and black points and any others you want to use as guides and save that adjustment as a file. Now simply apply your adjustments using an Action or Batch command with those adjustments to all exposures made under those conditions. They are all set for you to begin any further manipulation. Hope this helps.