Epson Perfection 4870

[West Coast]

Just got SF SE and trying to figure what benefits there might be when scanning archival B&W negatives and prints. (80-100 years old)
Have been using Photoshop Elements 3 for restoration.
Usually 50 mb files.

[LSI_Noack]

Dear West Coast

may I ask you to rephrase your question? The first request simply is stated in a manner to general, and so I am at a loss what you're actually looking for and/or need help with. Thank you very much in advance :)

Best regards
Sonny Noack
- Manager Technical Support, LaserSoft Imaging AG -

[RAG]

West Coast,

If I understand you correctly, it would benefit you by helping to provide high quality digitization of these images for archival. If you are like me, the only things you do for archival scans are to adjust tonality and perhaps crop out white image borders. As a side note the multi-scan feature provided by SilverFast AI Studio would help to capture higher quality shadow detail. SilverFast will also enable you to obtain high quality derivative scans and cut down on some of the post scan restoration if you are doing any.

[West Coast]

The negatives I have been scanning have a range of defects, from visible scratches down to almost microscopic scratches. There are tiny black dots as well as white voids that have likely been caused by aging and questionable storage of the originals over the years and some pictures are faded. Until now, I have spent countless hours carefully removing the blemishes from each picture using PS Elements 3. I have not used dust and scratch filters very often as I am trying to retain as much of the original sharpness of the negative as possible.
I am really doing two things, one making Raw scans for archival purposes, and making a second scan to be used for total restoration of the image.
I guess I am wondering whether SE is going to be much of a help with what I am attempting to do, or is an upgrade to a more advanced program going to be adviseable. I might add that eventually I will be wanting to scan a few hundred 35mm colour slides. I realize this is a rather general answer rather than a specific one. In the next couple of weeks I will perhaps have a more specific question after having attempted some new scans.
thanks

[RAG]

West Coast,

Thanks to LaserSoft you are able to download trial versions. Download and give SilverFast AI Studio a try. This way you can see the results first hand in your environment rather than relying on someone else?s opinion, right?

Pay special attention to the version you try, so that you purchase the correct version if you find it meets your needs and expectations.

Hope this helps!

[West Coast]

Using Epson 4870. Print size (glossy) is 16 x 20 inches, so it is much bigger than scan bed. Problem-how to make multiple scans ( then stitch them together with photoshop E3, which I can do) but maintain uniform color exposure of each section that is scanned.
I have tried scanning sections of print and putting them all together, but each section is exposed differently so the colors don't match at the seams.
Is it possible with Silverfast SE to lock the exposure so that this problem can be solved.

I have tried taking digital (8meg) digital photo of print, with mediocre results as resolution is inadequate.
Wondering too, if taking 35mm photo would be the answer.

[RAG]

You can try one of the following two methods:

1) Do the initial pre-scan and make your adjustments in SilverFast, then scan the first part. Position the next part of the image, do a pre-scan and then scan without changing your previous settings.

2) Scan using HDR and making your adjustments in Photoshop after stitching the image together.

[West Coast]

I will give that a try tomorrow, but did finally get accepatble results with the following.

I had to scan the image in four parts.

the two top parts of the image were a good match, although there was narrow but lighter coloured strip at the joint. I darkened this with the burn tool and it is not visible now.
The two bottom pieces fit together well, (panorama merge), but the bottom half of the photo was lighter than the top, when joined. Started again, but first darkened the bottom half, re-merged, and after the fourth trial and adjustment, the tones of the bottom of the image matched those of the top when merged.
slow and tediious. I will try your suggestion.
thanks

[RAG]

It sounds like the better option will be the HDR, which is basically providing "RAW" image information from the scanner.

Let us know what ends up working the best.

[West Coast]

Well, I finally got that job done and it looks very good. Scanned the image in four sections, then stitched it together in PSE Panorama. Subsequently I found a shop with a large enough scanner. $100 per scan, but would be worth it next time.

Thanks for all the help.