Which "internal" profile should I use?

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mullertl
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Scanner: Plustek OpticFilm 7600i
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Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby mullertl » Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:01 pm

I'm confused. My SilverFast SE Plus 6.6.2 r2 has the following CMS/internal choices available:

None
AdobeRGB1998.icc
AdobeRGB1998.icc
AdobeRGB1998.icc
sRGB.icc

So far I've had the best results scanning Kodachrome slides with "none", though I have issues importing the resulting files into iPhoto. (black thumbnails in iPhoto 08, "unrecognizable file type" in iPhoto 09.) I admit that many of the first slides I've scanned are vastly underexposed and that may be why AdobeRGB1998 doesn't work well.

AdobeRGB1998 seems to be the factory default. Why is AdobeRGB1998 listed three times? Are they all the same?

What's the difference between all the options.

I first want to get good images on my iMac. I also use my images in photo books made with iPhoto, or I print them via an on-line photo print site. Occasionally I've used them in a book created and printed at Lulu. The Lulu printed images were much redder than they appeared on my iMac.

What option should I be using?

Thanks! :D

LSI_Moeller
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Re: Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby LSI_Moeller » Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:49 am

Dear mullertl,

there are many folders where color-profiles are inside on a Mac.
The profile "AdobeRGB1998.icc" was found three times on your Mac so it is listed three times in the choice.

The reason for different colors from print-services on the web is a missing color-management.
Most print-services don´t use your color-profile, they are using their own.
This produces differences in color.

Best regards
Artur Möller

mullertl
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Scanner: Plustek OpticFilm 7600i
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SilverFast Version: 6.6

Re: Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby mullertl » Wed Aug 11, 2010 12:57 pm

So with my only choices being none, AdobeRGB1998, or sRGB, which profile should I choose? When I go into GraphicConverter, ColorSync, or the Mac's Preview program, many other color profiles are listed. They don't show up on the SilverFast menu however.

Thanks,

Tom

degrub
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Re: Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby degrub » Wed Aug 11, 2010 7:54 pm

According to LULU you can ship them images in CYMK.

https://support.lulu.com/Question.jsp?i ... 83d37c13db

So work on the image in any of the color spaces you prefer. For web display sRGB is pretty universal. If you convert to CMYK and do a soft proof, you may get close to what the LULU printers are doing. It won't be exact, but should allow you to catch gross color shifts.

This assumes you are working with a color managed workflow and have calibrated your display to give a reasonable approximation of the printer output on the specific paper. Without calibration, your screens' whitepoint is probably too "blue", which is why you noticed the prints looking redder that what you see on screen. Ambient light also affects the hues you see on screen.

Frank

LSI_Morales
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Re: Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby LSI_Morales » Fri Aug 13, 2010 1:23 pm

Dear mullerti,

You should choose either AdobeRGB1998 or sRGB

AdobeRGB1998 is bigger than sRGB, it means it has more colors to represent your picture. However most monitors and print paper has a smaller color space than that of AdobeRGB1998.

Cheers
Alejandro Morales

LaserSoft Imaging
Media manager, Software testing

LSI_Moeller
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Re: Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby LSI_Moeller » Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:15 pm

Dear Tom,

So with my only choices being none, AdobeRGB1998, or sRGB, which profile should I choose? When I go into GraphicConverter, ColorSync, or the Mac's Preview program, many other color profiles are listed. They don't show up on the SilverFast menu however.


SilverFast SE allows you the choise of standard-profiles. The choise of all color-profiles is integrated in SilverFast Ai.

According to LULU you can ship them images in CYMK.


There are many CMYK profiles, so you dont´t know wich Printer with wich profile is in use.
For this case is the color-profile "eciRGB_v2" recomend, to find at "www.eci.org" (only working in Ai).

Best regards
Artur Möller

mullertl
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Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 2:00 am
Scanner: Plustek OpticFilm 7600i
SilverFast Product: SE Plus
SilverFast Version: 6.6

Re: Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby mullertl » Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:40 pm

Thany you very much.

I'm beginning to think I should upgrade to Ai. There seem to be many options not available in SE.

All I want is to scan my Kodachrome slides so they look the same on the screen as they do when projected. Then, if I choose to print or publish some pictures, I want the printed product to look the same as the slide and screen versions.

Would Ai help?

Thanks,

Tom

LSI_Moeller
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Re: Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby LSI_Moeller » Mon Aug 16, 2010 9:54 am

Dear Tom,

Ai, in conjunction with a comlete color-management.
That means a calibrated scanner, a calibrated monitor and, if you want to print your images at home, a calibrated printer.

There are a few factors like ambient light for example,
that can not guaranteed that a projected image will be viewed the same as a picture on a monitor and there is no way I know to calibrate a projector.
Please read the chapter 7 (color-management) in our manual (https://www.silverfast.com/download/docu ... -06-21.pdf) for more information.

Best regards
Artur Möller

degrub
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Re: Which "internal" profile should I use?

Postby degrub » Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:33 pm

Tom,

Welcome to the toughest problem in reproducing images.
Have a read over at Luminous Landscape in the color management forum.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/

One can do pretty well on the scan and display on computer. Life gets more difficult when you print since there is a transformation from transmissive to reflective media. Even the light source in the room that you work makes a difference in how you perceive ( and sometimes calibrate) the screen and view the print.

Andrew Rodney (aka "digitaldog") is one of the experts to pay attention to on the issue. Have a look at some of his books.

The good news is one can usually get pretty close without breaking the bank on equipment. You will just have to experiment and see what is good enough for your needs.

It's tough to capture the full beauty of Kodachrome on any print. It was designed for projection and has a high dynamic range.


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